The truth is, there is no magic process or hidden secrets to sharpening chisels & plane blades if you.
- Choose a sharpening system
- Create the correct bevel or bevels
- Does it get any better?
- The problem with sharpening is ?
One of the most frustrating things about sharpening is choosing a system. The method for years now has been to hollow-grind your chisels/plane blades at 25 degrees on a grinder. (Primary bevel)
Then form a micro bevel of 4 or 5 degrees on an 800-grit water stone, followed by honing at 8000 grit. “Done” Standard everyday sharpening with Western chisels and planes. Takes less than 5 minutes.
“So, what’s all the fuss about sharpening“?
There are three ingredients to great sharpening.
- Flattening the soles & backs of chisels, plane blades
- Grinding the correct bevel angle
- Honing the edge
Let’s start with flattening the plane’s body. With the blade in position but not protruding, draw lines with a marker pen on the plane’s base. Move the plane back and forth over the 120-grit sandpaper, and look at the base where the red marker pen has remained. This will tell you where the high and low spots are.
Stay at 120 grits until the surface is flat. (no red pen). Then work through the higher grits to create a smooth, flat surface on the soles of your planes. Apply the same process to your chisels and plane blades. Apply firm even pressure, and keep moving the chisel back and forth over the sandpaper or stones. I stop at 1200 grit for plane soles and 4000 for chisels & plane blades.
What’s the best way to grind the bevel angle?
Many experienced makers learned to sharpen on bench grinders as apprentices back in the 70s, 80s, and 90s and stuck with it. Using a bench grinder is the most difficult; one slip of pressure, and you’ll burn the edge. De tampering it, creating a pain in the neck. With the whole process having to be redone again. You can buy better wheels, but it’s still the highest risk.
Mediocre whetstone grinder, get rid of that, the wet stones are too soft. (more like sandstone than sharpening stone). Bought it, tried it, sold it, lost money on it.
Now we’re talking!
I’m a big fan of my Tormek, and it’s a real joy to use when set up. Compared to older methods like bench grinders or sandpaper, this one’s a game changer. Like all good machines, it does need routine maintenance and the setting up of jigs.
Stone truing jigs, flat blade jigs. Keep the stone aligned with the guide bar. Check that the guide bar is the correct height for the stone. Fresh supply of water every day. Remember to remove the stone from the water tray each night. Must be near a power socket. Replacement stones are expensive.
Is there a simpler way to create a primary bevel?
Four ceramic stones: 120, 320, 800, 8000. They sit in their own case, sleep overnight in a drawer. Come out each morning ready to work, with a little splash of water (Brilliant). The 120 and 320 stones replace the sharpening machines; a bit slower, but I don’t need them every day, and they cost less than a tenth of the Tormek.
If this page is boring you, then jump to part 4 for the fastest, sharpest results and get on with life.
Honing the edge
I’m not looking for a quick sharpening method. More of a consistent no-brainer: does this do that, get super-sharp results every time method. With the primary bevel now at 25 degrees, set the chisel in the honing guide at 30 degrees. Once you’re confident with the honing guide. Try sharpening freehand, or at least the honed edge.
I use the 800 grit ceramic stone until I can feel a definite burr (wire edge) on the back of the chisel / plane blade. Then turn the chisel over, still in the honing guide and make 5 or 6 short swipes to remove the burr.
Go straight to the 8000-grit stone, keep moving over the stone until you can feel a tiny burr on the chisel edge. Remove from honing guide. 5 or 6 passes on the back of the chisel to remove the burr.
Wipe the edge with a dab of camellia Oil to prevent rust. That’s as far as I go with sharpening Western chisels and plane blades. If a chisel is damaged or badly worn, then start the sharpening process on the 120 stone to bring the bevel back, then move to the 320 to refine it, then follow the above.
Does it get any better?
The question is, why do we grind a bevel at 25 degrees, then hone at 28 /30
Speed!
To do a few passes or rehone an edge takes seconds free hand. Compared to sharpening or honing the whole bevel on a plane or chisel. It’s a fact; it’s quicker. The problem with this method is that once the cutting edge has become rounded, you have to regrind. Here lies the problem: a re-grind without a machine takes forever and wears down the stones.
A Japanese chisel only has one bevel.
Can we do this with our Western chisels? Yes, we can
“BUT” it works best on vintage carbon steel chisels with no modern chromium or other elements added to the steel.
The top chisel is machine-forged, while the bottom chisel is hand-forged. Look for tangs like the lower chisel, as these are easier to sharpen with a single bevel. You can see that the lower chisel tang is not perfect like the factory finish on the top chisel.
In part one, we had four sharpening stones, 120 & 320. Coarse stones to replace the sharpening machine. Next, we moved onto an 800 grit and final honing on 8000.
The whole point of sharpening for me. It is to find the easiest, most consistent way to get as near a perfect edge as possible.
1 single bevel = no adjustments.
I’ve upgraded the ceramic stone line up and added a mid-way stone at 5000 and a final honing stone at 16000. These extra stones reduce wear and give me a fine, polished edge. Adjusted the honing guide to set the bevel at 28 degrees for both planes and chisels.
One straight bevel honed to 16000 grit every time, nothing changes for 90% of the materials I work with.
The problem with sharpening is?
It’s a simple procedure that’s overmarketed and overcomplicated.
History is correct, and so was my foreman 36 years ago. The basic method is time served. Unless it’s a Japanese chisel. I’ve been all around the houses with sharpening; it doesn’t get any better than the basics. Flatten the back, grind a primary bevel at 25 degrees, and hone to 28 /30 degrees.
The complete process can be done to a good, sharp edge using sandpaper or stones alone. But the labour involved is boring & “laborious”. In my experience, my edge tools became blunter. Knowing how long it’s going to take to regrind the edge on stones alone. I would tilt the chisel up a little to sharpen it quicker. This then changes the angle, and you end up worse off than when you started.
Sorby Pro Edge sharpening machine with 3000 grit belt. 3000, 5000, 8000 & 16000 ceramic stones.
This method is expensive to set up, but it’s quick & consistent. The results are crisp, super sharp edges every time!!!
No doubt, as we walk the sharpening road in search of the perfect edge, we will hear of other methods to try. We’re told stories that we’ve missed the boat. All the good blacksmiths, tool makers and legendary steels faded away decades ago. Be diligent. Keep your ear to the ground. An eye out for the lurking merchant offering you super slick snake oil to hone that elusive perfect edge.
Thanks for reading
Best Matt North
